On February 19th, 2025 I set off for the adventure of a lifetime — Antarctica!
Limited internet access (and sky-high connection fees) meant I put my phone down, soaked up every moment, and truly lived the experience. Now that I’m home and have finally caught my breath (and downloaded about a million photos!), I can’t wait to share the journey with you.

Getting There: Planes, Friends, and Four Seasons in a Day

The trip kicked off with an overnight flight from DFW to Buenos Aires, Argentina, where my travel buddy and next-door neighbor, Janice, and I spent two days. (Fun fact: Janice was also my trusty partner-in-crime on our Iceland adventure last year, which makes me think I should write a blog post on that trip too!)

My husband, Wayne, stayed home — Iceland and Antarctica just don’t call to him the same way they do to me. So once again, Janice and I teamed up, joined by our friends, and fellow adventurers, Ronda and Lorie.

From Buenos Aires, we flew to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. We had a slight delay boarding our ship due to high seas that the previous cruise encountered on their return voyage — 20-30’ swells — but honestly, that just gave us more time to explore. Ushuaia's weather lived up to its reputation: in one morning, we had lashing rain, bone-chilling winds, and then... glorious sunshine. Four seasons in a single day? Check.

Setting Sail: Smooth Seas and Beagle Dreams

We finally boarded our ship late Saturday and set sail Sunday afternoon, easing through the Beagle Channel — which still makes me giggle every time I say it (picturing a cartoon beagle proudly naming it, but in reality it was named for the famous Royal Navy exploration sloop the HMS Beagle).

From there, it was onto the infamous Drake Passage. But luck was on our side: we got what sailors lovingly call the “Drake Lake” — calm seas, moderate winds, and the kind of gentle rocking that made sleeping pure bliss.

Land Ho! Penguins, Whaling History, and Falling Snow

After a day and a half at sea, we touched land at Half Moon Island in the South Shetland Islands.

Imagine snow softly falling, craggy rocks, and — yes — penguins everywhere. Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins waddled around us like it was just another Tuesday. We also spotted some fur seals and Antarctic birds, soaking in a landscape so surreal it felt like another planet.

Later that day, we anchored inside Deception Island, an old volcanic crater. We explored Whalers Bay, where abandoned structures from a long-gone whaling station still litter the shore — a haunting reminder of a darker time in the region’s history.

A Foot on the Continent and Whale Encounters Beyond Words

Mornings often started with coffee in bed and iceberg watching — a little slice of heaven. On February 25th, day four of the cruise, we officially set foot on the Antarctic Peninsula at Portal Point, which marked a huge personal milestone for me: visiting my seventh continent!

Later, we took Zodiac boats into thick fog to hunt for icebergs. The world around us disappeared into a white mist, the ship vanishing within minutes. Then… whales. Everywhere. Giant, graceful humpbacks glided by us in a glass-smooth sea sprinkled with slushy ice. Our guide would cut the engine, and you could hear them calling — deep, resonant sounds that vibrated in your chest. It snowed the entire time, blanketing everything — us included — in a layer of magic.

As if that weren’t enough, we spent the evening on deck, watching what felt like dozens of whales all around the ship. We stood there, breathless, for two hours straight, unwilling to miss a second.

The White Continent, my 7th, is in the record books!

Whale Soup, Kodak Gap, and Icy Wonders

Waking up the next morning, Janice and I sipped coffee in bed and spotted... whales! Pajamas were hastily abandoned for parkas as we rushed onto the balcony, staying out there for hours.

We sailed through the Gerlache Strait toward the Lemaire Channel — nicknamed “Kodak Gap” because of its insane beauty. (It delivered. Big time.) We had rare clear weather: mirror reflections, towering icebergs, penguins, whales, and a landscape that quite literally looked like a postcard.

After cruising through the channel, we explored Pleneau Island by Zodiac. Highlights included adorable Gentoo penguins, a sleek Leopard seal, and even a Minke whale up close. Sunsets that evening painted the icebergs every shade of pink and gold.

Crossing the Circle and Meeting a Legend

The next milestone: we crossed the Antarctic Circle at 66° South!

It felt different there — colder, crisper, and blanketed with endless ice. We even spotted another ship trapped in the ice (no worries — they were bigger and better equipped to crunch their way out).

In the midst of this icy wonderland, we witnessed something truly rare: an Emperor Penguin! These majestic creatures usually stick to the other side of the Antarctic Peninsula, and none of our naturalists had ever seen one in the wild before.

Later that day, dodging ice floes, we stopped for the famous Polar Plunge. Yes, I did it. Yes, it was freezing. Yes, it took my breath away (literally, like I struggled to catch my breath when I broke the surface). And yes, it was worth it!

Research Bases, Curious Seals, and an Epic Whale Breach

The next day we visited Winter Island, home to Wordie House (a historic British base) and the Ukrainian Vernadsky Research Station. A curious leopard seal gave one of our Zodiacs an up-close inspection, and we finally got to see adorable Adelie penguins on Petermann Island.

The crown jewel came that afternoon: after days of trying, I finally captured a humpback whale breaching! It happened so fast — one second I was tracking a whale, the next, he was launching into the air. I didn't even know if I caught it until I reviewed my camera. (Bless high-speed capture settings!)

The sheer scale was breathtaking: a giant whale airborne against the vast Antarctic backdrop, yet somehow still dwarfed by the towering mountains and ice.

The Final Adventures: Paradise, Penguins, and Goodbyes

Our last day of excursions was no less incredible.

We Zodiac-cruised through Paradise Bay (how’s that for a name?) past shimmering glaciers, nesting seabirds, and the Argentinian Brown Research Station.

Later, at Cuverville Island, we visited the largest Gentoo penguin colony we’d seen so far — penguins everywhere! And whales again surrounded us, so close to the ship that you could see the mothers swimming with their calves. It was hard to even queue for the Zodiacs because we were all glued to the windows watching the show.

The return trip across the Drake Passage was, thankfully, as smooth as the journey down. We had some gray skies and swells for a few hours, but overall it was a peaceful crossing.

Birdwatching filled our last day at sea (Janice and I had fun spotting birds and identifying them in our book) as we soaked up our final moments in this incredible corner of the world.

Even before we arrived back in Ushuaia, I was already trying to figure out when I could return to Antarctica.

Magical Antarctica

Gentoo Penguin

Half Moon Island, Antarctica

If you’re ever thinking about visiting Antarctica, I highly recommend Atlas Ocean Voyages. Our ship, the World Traveller, was modern and purpose built for polar exploration, the food and service were fantastic, and every detail felt thoughtful and luxurious without being stuffy. (And if you’re looking for a travel agent, Michael Rockwell with Avoya Travel helped make the trip seamless.)

Antarctica — you were beyond my wildest dreams.

Until next time. ❤️

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